|
Introduction
|
| From the earliest eyedroppers to the now ubiquitous
cartridge pens, many filling mechanisms have been introduced, used
for a time, and then dropped in favour "the new improved"
method. Because of fierce competition, pen manufacturers needed
to make their pens unique - they had to have a selling point that
no other make of pen could boast, and this was as often reflected
in their pens' internal workings as in their external styling. In
this section I will introduce some of the more common methods, and
explain how they should be used for the best results
|
|
Recommended Ink
|
| I can personally recommend any of the inks I sell on my "Writing Inks" page to be more than suitable for both vintage and modern fountain pens. I do test all the inks I sell before I even begin to stock them to ensure that they have no adverse effects on a wide range of pens.
|
|
Eyedroppers
|
| Most of the earliest true fountain pens were
eyedroppers. These pens were first manufactured before the
turn of the 20th century and are still made today by a few companies
around the world. They are generally very simple designs,
typically holding ink directly in the barrel - they usually hold
a good deal of ink and so write for a long time between fills. To
fill, unscrew the section from the barrel. Using an eyedropper,
small pipette or a syringe, add ink straight into the barrel. Make
sure you do not overfill - I usually leave about a quarter of an
inch gap between the ink level and the start of the barrel threads.
This allows room for expansion when the pen warms up in the
hand. Now screw the section back into the barrel, being careful
not to over tighten it and risk splitting the barrel threads. Your
pen is now ready to write. It may take a minute or two for
ink to work its way through the feed to the point of the nib.
|
|
Lever Fillers
|
| The lever filler has probably been used by more
manufacturers over a longer time period than any other type of filler,
save perhaps the modern cartridge/converter. In its simplest
form, a lever set into the barrel is manipulated so that it presses
on a pressure bar inside the barrel of the pen. This in turn presses
on a latex sac, causing it to deflate. Returning the lever
to its original position allows the sac to re-inflate, and in so
doing, it draws ink into the pen through the feed.
Hold the pen nib downwards over an opened bottle
of ink. Using your thumb nail, carefully catch the free end
of the lever, and move it away from the pen barrel. You will
see that it pivots at about two thirds to three quarters of the
way along the lever. Keep moving the lever until it is perpendicular
to the pen barrel. Some pens have a built-in lever "stop"
- a small projection on the pressure bar that stops the lever in
the fully extended position. In any case, the lever should
not be moved beyond the perpendicular.
In this position, the lever is pushing the pressure
bar so that it squeezes the ink sac against the side of the barrel.
The sac is fully deflated. Lower the nib into the ink so that
it is fully immersed. The nib must be completely covered for the
pen to fill correctly. Now return the lever to its original
position, and leave the nib in the ink for about twelve seconds.
This will give the ink sac time to re-inflate and draw the
ink in.
Remove the nib from the ink, and gently wipe
off any excess with a soft cloth or some blotting paper. You
are now ready to write.
|
|
Button Fillers
|
| The button filler is a variation on the lever
filler. A button at the end of the barrel, usually concealed
by a blind cap, deforms the pressure bar when pressed in. This
forces the air out of the ink sac. Releasing the button allows
the sac to draw ink into the pen.
To fill a button filler first remove the blind
cap from the end of the barrel. Hold the pen nib downward
over an opened bottle of ink. Press and hold the filling button.
Immerse the nib completely in the ink and release the button.
Leave the nib immersed for about twelve seconds before removing
it and wiping excess ink from the feed and nib. You are now
ready to write.
Many different manufacturers made button fillers,
including Parker and Conway Stewart.
|
|
Parker Aerometric
|
|
Parker patented the aerometric filler in 1948.
From then until the advent of the cartridge pen they used
the aerometric filler more than any other. The Parker aerometric
filler consists of a breather tube running from the rear of the
feed and down the inside of an ink sac. These sacs were made
from transparent pli-glass. such is the durability of this
material that the vast majority of aerometric sacs are still in
prime condition after more than 50 years. The sac is protected
by a stainless steel sleeve that incorporates a pressure bar.
Unscrew the barrel from the section of the pen.
Immerse the nib completely in ink. Push the pressure
bar in as far as it will go, and release to allow the pen to draw
in ink. Repeat five or six times, pausing for a few seconds
between each squeeze. The presence of the breather tube allows
air to be expelled when pressing the pressure bar in, and ink to
be drawn in when it is released. Remove the pen from the ink
and wipe the nib and feed. You are now ready to write.
Aerometric fillers are still used in many pens
today. They are especially popular in Chinese pens from manufacturers
such as Hero and Genius.
|
|
Parker 61 Capillary Filler
|
|
The Parker 61 is the only pen to have been fitted
with a capillary action filling system. The ink reservoir
is a teflon-coated tube filled with a fibrous material much like
a fibre-tip pen. By partially immersing this tube in ink the
fibrous filling attracts the ink by capillary action and the pen
fills.
Unscrew the barrel of the pen to reveal the ink
reservoir. Immerse the reservoir to a depth of one inch or
more in ink. Leave it in the ink for 30 seconds or so, then
remove it slowly. The teflon outer coating will shed
the ink from the outside of the reservoir so there should be no
need to wipe it. Replace the barrel and you are ready to write.
When your pen needs a refilling it will begin
to write lighter and lighter rather like when a fibre tipped pen
runs dry. This gradual lightening is unique to the Parker
61. Because it is difficult to flush the pen properly between
fills, it is usually not advisable to change ink colours often.
Neither is it advisable to change the make or type of ink
used for the same reason - some types of ink form a nasty sludge
when mixed together.
|
|
Parker Vacumatic
|
|
The first vacumatics were produced in 1932. In
this pen a rubber diaphragm is installed at the end of the barrel.
A spring plunger is fitted to the diaphragm in such a way
that when the plunger is depressed the diaphragm is stretched and
pushed into the pen barrel. A breather tube running into the
back of the feed completes a neat little pump. When the plunger
is pressed air is forced out through the breathe tube. When
released ink is drawn in. Early vacumatics had aluminium plungers
that locked in the depressed position by giving them a clockwise
twist. Later versions had plastic plungers that did not lock.
To fill,remove the blind cap at the end of the
barrel that covers the plunger. Immerse the nib fully in the
ink. Depress and release the plunger. Wait for a few
seconds, and repeat until no air bubbles are produced at the nib.
Remove the pen from the ink, wipe with come blotting paper
or a soft cloth to get rid of excess ink, and you are ready to write.
If you are filling a Parker 51 Vacumatic, remove
the pen from the ink before releasing the plunger for the final
time. This allows the pen to "slurp" excess ink
from the collector and around the nib - the hooded Parker 51 nib
is difficult to clean off otherwise.
Because the Vacumatic has no internal ink sac,
but stores ink directly in the barrel, it can hold considerably
more ink than more conventional pens of a similar size.
|
|
Sheaffer Touchdown
|
|
Sheaffer patented the Touchdown filler in 1949,
and from 1950 most of their range of fountain pens were fitted with
it. It still uses an internal latex ink sac, but with an air-tight
plunger relies on pneumatic pressure to deflate it.
Hold the pen nib downwards over an opened bottle
of ink. Unscrew the knob (or blind cap) at the end of the
barrel, and extend the plunger. The plunger shaft is a hollow
tube that slides over both the ink sac and its protective metal
sleeve.
Lower the nib into the ink so that it is fully
immersed. Now gently and smoothly push the plunger home. As
the plunger operates, it generates a positive air pressure inside
the pen that forces air (and ink) out of the ink sac. Just
before it hits bottom, air is allowed into the pen, and the sac
re-inflates, drawing ink into the pen. Leave the nib immersed
for about twelve seconds.
Remove the pen from the ink, screw the blind
cap back into place,and gently wipe off any excess ink from the
nib and feed with a soft cloth or some blotting paper. You
are now ready to write.
|
|
Sheaffer Snorkel
|
|
A development of the Touchdown filler described
above, the snorkel is a complex yet elegant and reliable system
that is simplicity itself to use.
Hold the pen nib downwards over an opened bottle
of ink. Twist the blind cap anticlockwise. This propels
the filling tube out of the front of the feed. When the tube
is fully extended, pull out the plunger as far as it will go. As
with the Touchdown, the plunger shaft is hollow and slides over
and around the ink sac.
Lower just a few millimetres of the filling tube
into the ink and push the plunger home. Leave the filling
tube in the ink for about twelve seconds, then twist the blond cap
clockwise to withdraw it until it fits flush to the front of the
feed.
Your pen has now been filled and should be ready
to write. No mess, and no fuss.
|
|
Swan Leverless (Pre-War)
|
|
Mabie, Todd and Co. patented their Leverless
mechanism in 1932. It was used primarily in the more up market
Swan pens. The original version of the Leverless filler consisted
of a twist knob at the end of the barrel which, when turned, moved
a vertical metal bar around the inside of the barrel, collapsing
the ink sac. Turning the knob back so that it screws back
into the barrel allows the sac to re-inflate and draw in ink.
To fill, hold the pen nib down over an opened
bottle of ink. Twist the filler knob anti-clockwise until
resistance is felt. Immerse the nib completely in the ink.
Screw the knob clockwise back into the barrel and wait for
about twelve seconds before removing the nib from the ink. Wipe
any excess ink from the nib and feed with blotting paper or a soft
tissue.
|
|
Swan Leverless (Post-War)
|
|
After 1945, the Leverless mechanism was updated. Internally,
this version of the filler is very similar to the lever filler in
that a pressure bar pushes against an ink sac to expel the air,
and then retreats to allow the pen to draw in ink. The difference
is that in the Leverless pen, a small knob, or blind cap, is twisted
for about 1.5 turns. This acts on an internal screw that compresses
the pressure bar, causing it to bow out and deflate the sac. Screwing
the blind cap back into the barrel relieves the force on the pressure
bar, and it regains its straight shape, allowing the pen to draw
in ink.
As with the lever filler, hold the pen nib downwards
over an open bottle of ink, and unscrew the blind cap about 1.5
turns, or until it tightens. Do not forcibly unscrew the cap
further that it "wants" to go. Immerse the nib fully
into the ink. Screw the blind cap back up so that it fits
flush with the barrel. Leave nib immersed for about twelve
seconds.
Remove the nib from the ink, and gently wipe
off any excess with a soft cloth or some blotting paper. You
are now ready to write.
|
|